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I'm an HPC Fanatic again!!! (Possibly not for long)

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Rich Hawley Page Icon Posted 2012-02-14 5:19 PM
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Paspie, if you lived here in the states I'd send you one...but alas, shipping is too expensive to the UK from here.

You need something simple, like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-mni-star-tamper-proof-key-set-97469.html

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C:Amie Page Icon Posted 2012-02-14 7:32 PM
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You can get them from the hardware store in Warners End.
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sophisticatedleaf Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 3:42 PM
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Oh dear shuckity-darns, this thread is reminding me too much of myself.

Paspie, as someone who started on here as a tween myself interested in the most ridiculous projects possible (no exaggeration, as many here will attest ), I'll talk down from my lofty place as an adult of incontrovertible maturity and save you a bit of time.

Just another moment; I'm waiting for the laughter to die down.

First, virtualbox (free) will allow you to do a better job with experimenting than using an actual older operating system (windows 2000, etc), because you're running it on top of a stable platform, and everything is sandboxed. When things start working, take a snapshot in virtualbox and you're golden. You can also tell it what kind of hardware you wish it to display to the system you're emulating so that you get the best results. I have absolutely no doubt that you could get sync working if you wished to in this manner, and you'd get to continue using your new, nice laptop. When you're done playing, you just close the older OS. As a side point, the older OS will also run more happily this way. It's a good habit to get into--running projects within a sandbox. It gives you better control to focus on what you're doing and save versions of it that work (as snapshots). You never lose your place.

I'll also point out at this time that Windows 2000 (also my favorite microsoft system, next to 95B ) runs code a good bit slower than xp does. The impact isn't huge, but xp is definitely a more efficient system (read: not bloated), and its compatibility with older software is actually better, as well. Unfortunately I still have not learned how to make it look exactly like 2000 (it'd take quite a bit of hacking).

It's pretty hard when you're fascinated with a million different things and want to learn them all at once. And you can learn them all--but not at once. If you really want things to get done, you'll have to see them through one or two at a time. You'll feel better seeing completed projects, too.

Yoldering: Great, suggest the system guaranteed to take over this his life
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C:Amie Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 4:18 PM
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I've made these suggestions quite resolutely, sadly I don't think that he believes me

... and I have to correct you there, 95 RTM was the only true blood version of 95. 95 A, B and C were for OEM's and had IE bundled. 95 RTM was the last pure version of Windows
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sophisticatedleaf Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 4:21 PM
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I still disregard half of what others say

Well wasn't there an update that added some pathetic usb support? I liked that version.
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C:Amie Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 4:50 PM
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Yes, USB 1.0 and it required OEM SR2.1 or 2.5. Nearly all USB devices are USB 1.1 though... so of little use.

So, hypothetical situation: If I called you an "educated delinquent" which half would you disregard?
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Paianni Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 5:16 PM
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Well guys!

Today I got myself a kit of Torx screwdrivers which included a T6 (often advertised for repairing mobile phones). I have been taking apart my Ericsson MC16 (HP 360LX) today.

1. Remove the screws behind the battery (one of them is located behind a warranty seal)
2. Pry half the case off
3. Remove two gold coloured T6 screws on the processor/compact flash side of the motherboard
4. Remove cables for display and battery power
5. Pry motherboard off the case

After that I have now successfully realigned the pins on the PC Card slot, I have tested, cards will go in an out no problem. I am now literally stuck at the reassembly. The connection for the display is angled really oddly behind some sort of additional circuit board which makes it impossible to put back in (it was fairly difficult to pull out). All the other cables should be fairly easy to put in but no. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/uOpewl.jpg[/IMG]

Edited by Paspie 2012-02-15 5:17 PM
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C:Amie Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 6:02 PM
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Brute force is the only answer with the 300 series. You need to get it align and then push extremely hard to get the retaining clips back in.
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Paianni Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 6:26 PM
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Push extremely hard on what? Once I do get the cable aligned I have absolutely zero access to it so I can't actually push it in to the socket.
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C:Amie Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 6:43 PM
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Oh, you haven't taken the hinges off have you?
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Paianni Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 6:57 PM
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IT WORKS! My dad came up with the suggestion to use a pair of tweezers to get those cables in, and it worked! It is all back together now, screws and all (the front section between the PC Card and stylus socket is refusing to close, but you could do much worse). I'm going to test out my wifi card now!
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C:Amie Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 8:05 PM
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Good job
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sophisticatedleaf Page Icon Posted 2012-02-15 9:32 PM
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Actually, I'm quite alright with that. Perhaps I should make that my new handle?

And yay, progress
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Paianni Page Icon Posted 2012-02-26 2:47 PM
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I had another go at that Sharp HC-4500 about a week ago, it is still an absolute pig to work on. One of the screws on the outer case has actually gone blunt and will not budge which means I cannot disassemble it. Even if I had got it out there is no clear seam around the battery holder to break into so I'm basically stumped. What a waste of £20 despite the accessories and the original box.

Edited by Paspie 2012-02-26 2:47 PM
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Rich Hawley Page Icon Posted 2012-02-26 3:17 PM
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What you need is a screw extractor....



(extractor.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments extractor.jpg (69KB - 1 downloads)
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